How to Get Faeces Out of a Mattress

hard to removeDry: At least 6 to 8 hours upright with airflow, ideally a full dayHeat sets this stainMoisture-sensitive surface

Getting faeces out of a mattress is possible at home but needs patience and honest expectations. The short version: cold, damp-not-wet cleaning with thorough blotting, an enzyme stage for the biology, and a genuinely complete dry before the bed is remade. Because a mattress is moisture-sensitive, keeping everything sparing matters as much as the product choice. There are situations here where a professional genuinely is the right call — they are flagged below.

What you’ll need

Recommended: Cold water and mild detergent, then an enzyme-based cleaner.

Homemade option: One teaspoon of mild detergent in 500 ml of COLD water. There is no good homemade substitute for the enzyme stage — the enzymes are the part doing the real work.

Dwell time: 10 to 15 minutes for the enzyme stage.

Step-by-step method

1
Strip the bedding immediately and blot the faeces hard with dry white cloths — stand weight on them to pull liquid back out of the fillings.
2
Put on gloves, then lift all solids with a scraper, cardboard or a bagged hand, working from the outside in and lifting straight up — pressing down or wiping sideways drives contamination into the fibre.
3
Dab the area with COLD water on a white cloth and keep blotting dry. Cold is not optional: any warmth cooks the protein onto the fibre.
4
Mix a teaspoon of mild detergent into 500 ml of cold water, dab it on, and blot. Repeat until no more transfers to the cloth.
5
For any remaining mark, apply an enzyme-based stain remover and leave it to work for the time on the label — usually around 10 minutes.
6
Blot the area dry with fresh cloths, dab with plain cold water to rinse, and blot again.
7
Once the stain is out, go over the area with a fabric-safe antibacterial cleaner or a one-to-one white vinegar and cold water solution, blot dry, and wash your hands and cloths thoroughly — this stain is a hygiene job as well as a stain job.
8
Press the cleaned area with a stack of dry towels under a weight for ten minutes to wick out moisture.
9
Sprinkle bicarbonate of soda over the area, leave it several hours, and vacuum — it draws residual moisture and odour.
10
Stand the mattress on edge in an aired room until COMPLETELY dry — at least 6 to 8 hours, ideally a full day — before any bedding goes back on.

Why this works

Protein stains like faeces are chains of amino acids that behave like egg white: liquid when fresh, but permanently solid once heat gets to them — which is why the whole method runs cold. The enzyme stage uses proteases, biological scissors that cut protein chains into small water-soluble fragments a blot can lift. On a mattress there is a second constraint the chemistry has to respect: no rinse stage can flush residue away, because flushing means soaking the core. That is why this version leans so hard on blotting, pressing and absorbent powder — mechanical extraction replaces the rinse.

Don’t do this on a mattress

Never use warm or hot water on faeces — heat coagulates protein and sets the stain permanently.
Never use a steam cleaner before the stain is fully out, for the same reason.
Keep children and pets off the area until it has been cleaned AND disinfected, and never dry-scrub — aerosolised residue is a genuine hygiene risk.
Never pour liquid onto a mattress — the core absorbs it and a damp core grows mould you will sleep over.
Always work with a damp cloth, never a wet one, however bad the stain.
Do not use bleach or solvent products on a sleeping surface.

Fresh spill vs dried-in stain

Deal with faeces fresh if you possibly can: it is a biological stain that both stains and contaminates, and the longer it sits the deeper both problems go. Dried residue needs rehydrating with cold water before enzymes can digest it, and the area should be disinfected once the stain itself is out.

A dried protein stain needs the enzyme cleaner from the start and possibly two or three cycles. Rehydrate the mark with cold water first so the enzymes can reach the protein.

When to call a professional

If the stain has soaked past the surface into the core — the usual sign is the mark reappearing after cleaning — a professional mattress clean with proper extraction is the honest fix. If odour or staining is extensive, price the clean against a new mattress first.

We don’t sell cleaning or take referral fees — when we say “call a pro”, it’s because the chemistry says so. Look for NCCA-registered firms.

Faeces on mattress FAQs

Will faeces come out of a mattress?

Sometimes — be honest with your expectations. Faeces is one of the harder stains on this surface, and complete removal is not guaranteed. A professional improves the odds considerably.

What is the best cleaner for faeces on a mattress?

Cold water and mild detergent, then an enzyme-based cleaner. From the cupboard: One teaspoon of mild detergent in 500 ml of COLD water. There is no good homemade substitute for the enzyme stage — the enzymes are the part doing the real work.

Can I use excess water — a soaked mattress core grows mould on a mattress?

No. A mattress is a sponge you sleep on: whatever goes in stays in unless it evaporates. The two rules that matter are minimal moisture — always a damp cloth, never a pour — and thorough drying, because a damp core grows mould you will breathe nightly. Enzyme cleaners handle the biological stains that mattresses actually get.

Does heat set faeces?

Yes — this is the mistake that makes faeces permanent. Keep hot water, steam cleaners and hair dryers away until the stain is completely out, and let the area air dry.

How long does a mattress take to dry after treating faeces?

At least 6 to 8 hours upright with airflow, ideally a full day. The slowest-drying surface in this guide: after damp cleaning allow at least 6 to 8 hours with real airflow, ideally a full day, before bedding goes back on.

When should I call a professional for faeces on a mattress?

Faeces on other surfaces

Other stains on a mattress

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Guidance is general and based on stain chemistry, WoolSafe and NCCA best practice, and manufacturer care standards. Always spot-test in a hidden area first, and follow your item’s own care label where it differs.